The fashion apparel industry has significantly evolved, particularly over the last 20 years. The changing dynamics of the fashion industry have forced retailers to desire depression cost and flexibility in design, quality, and speed to market, key strategies to maintain a profitable position in the increasingly enervating market place. This article reviews the literature on changes that have happened in the way apparel industry since the 1990s, highlighting the emergence of a concept of 'throwaway' or fast way. Information technology describes fast way from a supplier as well every bit a consumer'south perspective, and draws attention to several potential research issues.

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Fast style: response to changes in the fashion manufacture

Vertica Bhardwaj* and Ann Fairhurst

Retail and Consumer Sciences, The University of Tennessee, Knoxville, Us

(Received June 2009; final version received October 2009)

The fashion wearing apparel manufacture has significantly evolved, particularly over the terminal

20 years. The changing dynamics of the manner industry have forced retailers to

desire depression cost and flexibility in design, quality, and speed to market, primal

strategies to maintain a profitable position in the increasingly demanding marketplace.

This article reviews the literature on changes that accept happened in the fashion

apparel industry since the 1990s, highlighting the emergence of a concept of

'throwaway' or fast fashion. It describes fast manner from a supplier as well

every bit a consumer'south perspective, and draws attention to several potential research

issues.

Keywords: fast way; supplier; consumer; quick response; fashion season

The fashion clothes industry has significantly evolved, particularly over the last 20

years, when the boundaries of the manufacture started to aggrandize (Djelic and Ainamo

1999). The changing dynamics of the fashion industry since then, such as the fading

of mass production, increase in number of fashion seasons, and modified structural

characteristics in the supply chain have forced retailers to desireastward depression price and

flexibility in design, quality, delivery and speed to market (Doyle, Moo re, and

Morgan 2006). In addition to speed to marketplace and design, marketing and capital

investment take likewise been identified as the driving forces of compet itiveness in the

fashion apparel industry (Sinha 2006). Franks (2000) suggested 'sense and respond'

as the primal strategy to maintain a profitable position in the increasingly dynamic and

enervating market place. A fundamental defining characteristic of rapid responsiveness and greater

flexibility, in this context, is to maintain closer relationships betwixt suppliers and

buyers (Wheelright and Clark 1992).

Looking at the basic structure of the fashion manufacture until the late 1980s,

traditionally style apparel retailers used their capability of forecasting consumer

need and manner trends (known as ready-to-w ear) long before the bodily time of

consumption in order to compete in the market (Guercini 2001). However, recent

years have seen manner retailers compete with others by ensuring speed to market

with their ability to provide quickly the fashion trends revealed by way shows and

runways. According to Taplin (1999) , such retailers could be credited with the

adoption of 'quick way' that is an outcome of an unplanned proassessment on the

reduced time gap betwixt designing and consumption on a seasonal basis.

*Respective author. Email: vbhardwa@utk.edu

The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research

Vol. twenty, No. 1, Feb 2010, 165–173

ISSN 0959-3969 print/ISSN 1466-4402 online

Ó 2010 Taylor & Francis

DOI: x.1080/09593960903498300

http://www.informaworld.com

Today's fashion market is highly competitive and the abiding demand to 'refresh'

product ranges means that there is an inevitable move by many retailers to extend

the number of 'seasons', that is, the frequency with which the unabridged merchandise

within a store is changed. With the emergence of pocket-size collections of merchandise,

fashion retailers are encouraging consumers to visit their stores more frequently with

the idea of 'Here Today, Gone Tomorrow'. This indicates a shorter life bike and

higher profit margins from the sale of fast selling merchandise, skippi ng the marker-

downwards process birthday (Sydney 2008). In improver, desire to have diverseness and

instant gratification with price mavenism is motivating consumers to adopt retailers

such as Zara and H&Chiliad (National Mail 2009).

Several studies have examined various aspectsouth of the buyer-supplier relationship

with quic k or fast fashion, such every bit the wearing apparel design process relative to quick

response (Forza and Vinelli 1996), the role of the supplier in fast moving fashion

(Doyle, Moore, and Morgan 2006), buyer behaviour (Bruce and Daly 200vi), and

financial operation (Hayes and Jon es 2006). Yet, there appears to be a gap

in the literature focusing on the overall concept of 'fast fashion' that has emerged in

the fashion industry from a consumer perspective. Amongst numerous studies on fast

fashion, simply a few studies have focused on the consumer aspects that

drive the changes in the style industry (for example, Barnes and Lea-Greenwood

2006).

The purpose of this paper is to explore the changes that have occurred in the

fashion apparel industry in the past 2 decades and attempt to understand how fast

fashion emerged to the extent that it is tod ay. Specifically, the study eastwardxamines the

changes in the fashion clothes manufacture leading to the evolution of 'throwaway or

fast fashion'. A brief review of the literature serves to systemize and appraise the

existing work. This study further attempts to align the research capabilities with

market growth potential for fast fashion and proposes different venues for

conducting research to acquire a meliorate understanding of fast fashion every bit a

consumer-driven arroyo, not merely supplier-driven.

Overview of the fashion apparel manufacture

In the course of the last two decades, the fashion apparel indust ry across the globe

has undergone profound transformation due to diverse changes in the business concern

surroundings. To sympathize the areas for research in fast way for the future, it is

important to consider how it has evolved. The following sections discuss the changes

that have occurred in the way industry since the 1990s.

Fading of mass production

Until the mid 1980s, success in the fashion industry was based on low toll mass

production of standardized styles that did not change frequen tly due to the design

restrictions of the factories, such equally Levi'south 501 jeans and a man's white shirt,

although there were exceptional cases of rapid irresolute haute couture (Brooks

1979). Apparently, consumers during that time were less sensitive toward style and

style, and preferred basic clothes.

Bailey and Eicher (1992) reported a sudden increase in the import of fashion

oriented apparel for women as compared to the standardized apparel in the 1980s.

166 V. Bhardwaj and A. Fairhurst

This reduced the demand for classic though elementary apparel as consumers started

becoming more way-conscious (Bailey 2001). For example, the women's legwear

industry introduced colours and textures to basic hosiery to coord inate with every

outfit (Donnellan 1996). Unfortunately, this change in fashion oriented apparel

contributed to an increment in mark-downs in the market, which became necessary

due to the failure to sell fashion apparel during the forecasted season (OTA 1987).

This argument was farther supported by Malone (1998, 1999) who provided

evidence that mass production of fashion products was non a solution to proceeds profits

in the style business organisation.

Way seasons

As fashion is considered to be a temporary cyclical phenomena adopted by

consumers for a particular time (Sproles 1979), it becomes evident that the life cycle

for fashion is quite minor. Since the 1980s, a typical life bicycle for fashion apparel had

4 stages: introduction and adoption by fashion leaders; growth and increase in

public acceptance; mass conformity (mat uration); and finally the decline and

obsolescence of fashion. Also, the mode calendar during this time was primarily

based on the textile exhibitions, fashion shows and trade fairs, that consisted of the

basic pattern of Spring/ Summer and Autumdue north/Winter ranges which typically resulted

in developing a seasonal range in ane full year.

Notwithstanding, towards the beginning of the 1990s, retailerdue south started focusing on

expanding their product range with updated products and faster responsiveness to

the 'newness' of the way trends; and pro viding 'refreshing' products instead of

just cost efficiencies for manufacturing (Barnes and Lea-Greenwood 2006; Hines

2001; Hoffman 2007). In order to increase the variety of style apparel in the

market, the concept of calculation more than phases to the existing seasons (that is, the period

of timeast during which fashion products are sold) in a fashion calendar came into

beingness. The addition of three to five mid-seasons forced immense pressure on suppliers

to de liver fashion apparel in smaller batches with reduced lead fourth dimension (Tyler, Heeley,

and Bhamra 2006). For instance, Liz Claiborne adult six seasons instead of only

two (Bailey 2001). These changes to the number of mid-seasons arose partly from the

changes in consumers' lifestyles and partly from the need to satisfy consumers'

demand for fashion clothing for specific occasions.

Structural characteristics

Towards the tardily 1980s, the style wearing apparel industry was dominated past severa50 large

retailers which increased the competition levels in the marketplace (Barnesouth and Lea-

Greenwood 2006). In social club to survive the competition, other fashion apparel

retailers switched from product-driven to buyer-driven chains, developed alliances

with suppliers in diff erent markets, and promoted their distinctive brands (Tyler,

Heeley, and Bhamra 2006). This resulted in an increa se of profits from unique

combinations of high-value research, design, sales and marketing that would allow

them and the manufacturers to act strategically past linking with overseas factories

(Gereffi 1999, 43). Tyler, Heeley, and Bhamra (2006) illustrated that the fashion

clothes industry adult an infrastructure around the belatedly 1980s with an emphasis

on promoting responsiveness (quick response) through reduced lead times, forth

The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Enquiry 167

with maintaining low costs. Hereafter, the phenomena of sourcing manufacturing

and processes in fashion apparel manufacture to offshore places with low labour costs

became a trend, thereby resulting in a substantial price advantage.

Despite the merits of outsourcing, it led to significantly longer pb times,

complicated supply chains due to geographic distances, inconsistency and variability

in processes at both ends of the chown, and co mplex import/export procedures

(Birtwistle, Siddhiqui, and Fiorito 2003; Bruce and Daly 2006). In fact, the thought of

cost savings through outsourcing manufacturing to low wage nations became

deceptive as the savings sometimes were significantly low compared with the cost of

obsolescence, forced mark-downs, and inventory conveying costs (Christopher,

Lowson, and Peck 2004). Tyler, Heeley, and Bhamra (2006) highlighted product

evolution as the weakness for the longer atomic number 82 times to deliver fashion apparel to

point-of-sale to consumers. As further explained, they illustrated that all the key

players in a supply concatenation (that is, fashion and text ile designer, retail purchaseer and

manufacturers) worked in sequence in social club to contribute their role, resulting in

excessive costs, lack of effective communication and reworks due to inaccurate

product developments. Furthermore, instead of translating the trends into the

marketplace chop-chop, manner retailers failed to sell the merchandise during the

appropriate season, adversely impacting the profits (Fiorito, May, and Straughne

1995). Not surprisingly, the situation became worse due to the rapid changing

lifestyles and consumers' choices for fashion and wearable in the market.

All these shortcomings forced the industry toward restructuring in guild to

improve their operational operation (Taplin 2006). Some of the examples of

restructuring that emerged effectually the 1990s include just -in-time techniques and

quick a response with shorter lead times. For example, the number of fashion

apparel retailers in the United states of america that started implementing a quick response (QR)

strategy grew from 60% to 72% from 1994 to 1995 (Jones 1995). In recent years,

these changes in the fashion apparel industry in the USA in terms of outsourc ing

manufacturing to low wage countries and demand-driven flexible supply chains have

shown that quick responsiveness is possible fifty-fifty in the presence of long physical

distances.

Fast fashion

Fashion is defined as an expression that is widely accepted past a group of people over

time and has been characterized by several marketing factors such as low

predictability, high impulse purchase, shorter life cycle, and high volatility of

market demand (Fernie and Sparks 1998). Thus, in lodge to be profitable in the

industry, fashion apparel retailers need to take the 'speed to market' approach to

capitalize on fashion that is non in the stores of their competitors. It has been farther

emphasized that market place responsiveness and agility through rapid incorporation of

consumer preferences into the design process in product development increases the

profit margins for retailersouth (Christopher, Lowson, and Peck 2004).

Looking at history, fashion runways and fashion shows were the biggest

inspiration for the way manufacture. Along with this, these tendency shows were

primarily restricted to designers, buyers and other manner managing director s. However from

1999 onwards, manner shows and catwalks became a public miracle, where

photographs of the recent fashion shows cou ld be seen in magazines and on the web

leading to demystification of the fashion process (Sydney 2008). Equally a result, mode-

168 V. Bhardwaj and A. Fairhurst

conscious consumers were exposed to exclusive designs and styles inspired from

runways. Retailers such as Zara, H&Yard, Mango, New Look, and Meridian Shop were

adopting such designs rapidly to attract consumers and introduce interpretations of

the runway designs to the stores in a minimum of three to five weeks (Barnes and

Lea-Greenwood 2006).

Cartoon on the foundations of quick responsiveness, the mode clothes

industry shifted from forecasting future trends to using real-time information to sympathize

the needs and desires of the consumers (Jackson 2001). The inability to accurately

forecast or predict future trends (Christopher, Lowson, and Peck 2004) or failure to

quickly imitate and produce fashion apparel as seen on runways (Richardson 1996)

can atomic number 82 to risk associated with longer lead times and hence failure to attract fashion-

conscious consumers. Using real-time data tin can eliminate this possible take a chance.

United Kingdom retailers

The UK fashion indu stry has been widely ack nowledged to take initiated this unique

strategy in the fashion manufacture (Barnes and Lea-Greenwood 2006). Since its

first, the fashion clothes industry has been characterized by high levels of

authorization past large retailers in the Great britain with inflexible supply bondage (Hines and

Bruce 2001). Around the 1990s, apparel manufacturers and retailers, primarily from

the UK witnessed toll pressure from the strong players in the market. In order to

stay in competition, Britain retailers such equally New Expect and George shifted sourcing of

merchandise to the Far E for a low price advantage. In doing so, supply chains

became more circuitous due to all-encompassing geographical altitude, thereby forcing these

retailers to introduce practices such as merely-in-time (JIT), estimator integrate d

manufacturing (CIM), total quality management (TQM) in manufacturing along

with emphasis on shorter supply lines and quick response in the market (Bruce,

Daly, and Towers 2004).

As an result, retailers in the U.k. started providing increased variety and

fashionability to their customers, keeping in mind the low cost of the merchandise.

In addition, they besides added mid-season purchasing to their previous two-season

calendars, resulting in providing high style at a low cost 'throwaway market place'.

Since then the 'throwaway market' (now called fast fashion) has become a tendency or

norm (Tokatli, Wrigley, and Kizilgu

¨

n 2008). In sum, the concentrated United kingdom fashi on

market resulted in street manner as an attempt to gain a competitive edge along with

market share through speed to market (Birtwistle and Freathey 1998).

The following sections provide supplier and consumer pe rspectives in regard to

fast fashion.

Fast fashion from the supplier perspective

Clothes markets have become more varied and faster-changing in the present retail

environment. The development of new, quick fashion appears symptomatic of the

transition from a production-driven to a market-driven approach in the fashion

apparel industry. Retailers have started realizing that flexibility and rapid

responsiveness to the marketplace are the areas that are most important in today'south

market.

During the past two decades, the style apparel industry has received increased

attention in the context of buyer-supplier relationships, and quick response and

The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research 169

supply chain management to gain a competitive border in the market (Crewe and

Davenport 1991; Fiorito, May, and Straughne 1995; Sohal, Perry, and Pratt 1998;

Perry and Sohal 2000). In academic study, fast fashion has been researched from the

perspective of a business model with a quick response strategy to reduce production

times (Bailey 2001). Literature on fast fashion reflects association with pressure on

lead-time reduction in an organization and coordination with various players in the

supply chain (Barnes and Lea-Greenwood 2006; Wensley 1999).

The obsoleteastward long-buying cycles for many fashion retailers ha due south forced them to

meliorate responsiveness in reduced time, resulting in an introduction of several

practices in the fashion industry that describe shorter, more flexible supply chains

such as quick response (Fernie and Azuma 2004), just-in-time (Bruce, Daly, and

Towers 2004) and agile supply chains (Bruce, Daly, and Towers 2004; Christopher,

Lowson, and Peck 2004). In order to improve efficiency in the demand-driven

market place, these practices have often been related to vertical integration focusing on

collaboration, information sharing and trust between entities in a supply chain

(Birtwistle, Siddhiqui, and Fiorito 2003). In improver, improvements in communica-

tion between retailers and producers through engineering science such as computer-aided-

design (CAD) and electronic data interchange (EDI) have contributed to shortening

pb times (Bruce, Daly, and Towers 2004).

Fast fashion from a consumer perspective

Consumers are condign more demanding and fashion savvy which is forcing

style retailers to provide the correct product at the right time in the market – in

other words, pro vide quick (fast) manner (The Economist 2005). Every bit the consumer

market is fragmented in terms of consumption patterns, fast way is gaining in

importance amongst consumers. With such developments, researchers should identify

the total spectrum of consumer behaviour towards fast manner. The literature on fast

fashion highlights various aspects of supply concatenation management, supported by supply

chain theory to ameliorate the business model of fashion retailers. It is worth noting

that not many studies have addressed fast fashionorthward as a consumer-driven approach,

leaving this an under-researched expanse.

Information and trends are moving around the world at tremendous speeds,

resulting in consumers' power to have more options an d thus store more than often

(Hoffman 2007). Changes in lifestyle due to sociocultural factors and a need for

uniqueness forces fashion retailers to renew merchandise constantly to deal with the

growing competition in the market (Sproles and Burns 1994). The constant, varying

demands past consumers has impacted the process of forecasting and product

planning shifting; towards replicating famous designs and styles from fashion

magazines and fashion shows in small quantities more frequently (Christopher,

Lowson, and Peck 2004).

The perception of throwaway style varies amid different generations. For

example, young people of the population that constitute Generation Y would prefer

a higher number of low-quality, cheap and fashionable clothes as compared to infant

boomers, who would adopt to purchase fewer number of higher quality clothes

(Crewe and Davenp ort 1992). From conservative consumers' perspective, fast

mode is viewed as a 'westwardaste' considering rather than ownership ane high quality detail to

satisfy a wardrobe need, consumers buy multiples that are lower quality and and so

throw old merchandise away as rapidly equally they bring in new ones (Sydney 2008). In

170 5. Bhardwaj and A. Fairhurst

understanding with Barnes and Lea-Greenwood (2006) and based on different

perspectives of consumers toward fast fashion mentioned in this written report, it is apparent

that fast fashion is a consumer-driven arroyo, in addition to a supplier-driven

approach.

Time to come research related to fast mode

Review of existing research on different attributes of fast fashion indicates that the past

20 years have seen substantial progress in knowledge generation well-nigh the topic, as

evidenced by the increasing number of journal publications over fourth dimension and the variety

of topics addressed, though these are mostly restricted to the supply chain domain.

Literature on fast fashion implies that rapid responsiveness techniques such every bit

simply-in time, quick response, and active supply chains tin be valuable to the fashion

industry considering such techniques can create a competitive border in the market (run into,

for example, Bruce, Daly, and Towers 2004; Christopher, Lowson, and Peck 2004;

Fiorito, May, and Straughne 1995; Sohal, Perry, and Pratt 1998). However, minimal

evidence addresses consumer behaviour towards style that is quickly irresolute

(see, for case, Barnes and Lea-Greenwood 2006). By knowing how and to what

extent rapid changing fashion affects consumers' purchase behaviour and satisfac-

tion levels, retailers can develop strategies that can atomic number 82 to improved profitability.

The phenomenon of fast fashion has existen extens ively discussed in the fashion

press. Still, the existing academic literature on fast mode is somewhat limited

and calls for additional research on aspects such as factors that motivate consumers'

purchase intention such equally exclusivity, price-consciousness, hoarding merchandise

for futurity employ, co nsumersouthward' perceived hazard due to merchandise-off between quality and cost,

consumer expectation and satisfaction afte r the consumption process, and

consumers' efficiency in terms of price–benefit analysis.

The dramatic alter in the fashion clothes industry, coupled with environ-

mental concerns giving rise to conscious consumers in terms of fair trade, the green

market and organic clothingrand, implies that enquiryers will demand to broaden, redesign

and align their research to match the style markets in the 20-first century.

Further research tin also examine the pricing strategy used for fast fashion wearing apparel

along with analysis of consumers' willingness to pay more for environmentally

friendly and sustainable fast fashion apparel (for example, organic and green cotton

apparel used by Zara and H&Yard) (encounter Ethical Manner 2009). Currently, petty is reported

in the literature regarding the segmentation of consumers based on the credence of

fast way. Therefore, it is important to conduct resear ch to analys east the acceptance

of fast fashion across different consumer segments. Another area of resear ch involvement

could be to run across whether consumers perceive fast fashion brands as counterfeit due to

lower cost and quality offered by the retailers. As well, information technology will be worth understanding

how consumers differentiate value retailing and fast manner retailing as both aim to

offer lower prices.

Conclusion

Fast fashion is a concept that volition continue to affect the manner apparel manufacture

over the next decade and volition have a direct effect on the fashion consumers purchase and

react to trends. Although continued research relative to the supply-side of fast

fashion is important, emphasisouthward should exist placed on examining consumers'

The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research 171

perception of fast mode. Empirical agreement of consumer characteristics and

their motivation to brand purchase decisions for throwaway fashion can assistance

retailers in developing effective marketing strategies to perform more than effectively in

the market place.

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... This is highly influenced by the proliferation of social media and internet [24], which is a widespread medium for dissemination of information related to the latest manner trends, upcoming fashion weeks and popular celebrities. Due to this, the F&A supply concatenation has to rapidly change the collections to fulfill the growing consumer demand [25]. Hence, it is driven by a combination of business-to-business organisation (B2B) and concern-to-consumer (B2C) transactions. ...

... five. The gross demand attribute (25) is the average demand created for a campaign. 6. Fig. 5 shows the distribution of average profit per order within campaign. ...

... For example, as the sales of F&A products are price sensitive, meaning customers are normally attracted to less expensive items, the F&A retailers often demand to reduce the production toll of F&A products. This is the reason why most of the F&A companies outsource manufacturing to developing countries with relatively depression wages 42(Bhardwaj & Fairhurst, 2010). Due to the globalised nature of the F&A supply concatenation, factors such as pb time, inventory and natural calamities can be disruptive. ...

  • Chandadevi Giri Chandadevi Giri

Digitalization has led many industries to generate enormous data from various business activities and further immune them to develop new ways of interactions amid the different stakeholders. The style and apparel (F&A) industry is undergoing significant transformations due to increased digitalization, and therefore, it is experiencing rapid generation of data in big quantities at various levels of its supply chain. This rapidly generated data could provide valuable insights to map uncertainties involved in the decision making processes, place correlations amid cardinal decision factors and model the complex behaviour of different actions. By exploiting these datasets, the F&A manufacture could improve its decision making at different value bondage. The popularity of Bogus Intelligence (AI) every bit an advanced tool for supporting wide range of decisions is rapidly increasing. AI could be used as a potential tool to derive insights from the large datasets that are of import for solving complex decision problems in the F&A industry. Despite its growing popularity, the applications of AI for supporting diverse decisions inside the F&A industry are limited. The chief reasons behind it could be the lack of noesis on its telescopic; the complication of AI model implementation on real information; and lack of agreement of its monetary benefits.The purpose of this thesis is to identify the electric current challenges faced past the F&A retail industry while handling complex decision problems and to exploit the extensively generated information to develop AI-based approach to address them.In this context, this thesis kickoff investigates the touch on of AI at different F&A supply chain stages and so focuses on F&A retailing. The managers or determination-makers in the F&A retail manufacture demand to analyze the different types of data to understand their customers and prioritize their business concern strategies. Thus, to deal with such massive and circuitous data appropriately, AI techniques could be used to explore and model the complex customer behaviour. Therefore, this thesis exploits 3 different types of F&A retail data: customer transaction data, sales data, and campaign information. Using these information, three studies were conducted using AI techniques to predict the consumer behaviour, sales and campaign success. The results from these three studies demonstrate how different types of data and AI techniques could be used to develop a novel approach for improving decision making in the F&A retail industry.In conclusion, this thesis, through 3 example studies, demonstrates how information-driven AI models enable F&A retailers to effectively manage their determination bug. Hence, this thesis serves of import implications for the F&A retailers for efficiently analyzing their information using AI techniques. The outcomes of this thesis could help them meliorate the determination making process, manage pressing decision bug such as inventory management, accurate forecasting and waste reduction, and thereby enhance client engagement and marketing campaigns.

... Fast fashion seeks to reduce manufacturing time past reducing the time in blueprint, procurement, product and distribution. The industry has been undergoing a shift from a supply-driven posture towards a customer-driven orientation (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). Suppliers of FFA products now face numerous challenges stemming from added pressures to reduce costs, shortened product life cycles, ascent customer expectations and coping with increased doubt (Chan et al., 2017). ...

... The production phase of garments has received a lot of criticism as ane of the most polluting industries in the globe, due to its excessive employ of water, pesticides, chemicals and energy during the dissimilar phases of its supply chain; and the mountains of landfill created when a products lifecycle has come to an end. The entire industry is invested in increasing its flexibility in terms of design, delivery and speed getting to the market (Christopher et al., 2004;Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). This is a practice that has led to consumers ownership new and low-toll garments weekly, or even daily, and then disposing of them more often (Beard, 2008;Leslie et al., 2014;Brydges, 2018). ...

... Fast fashion seeks to reduce manufacturing time by reducing the time in design, procurement, production and distribution. The industry has been undergoing a shift from a supply-driven posture towards a client-driven orientation (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). Suppliers of FFA products now face numerous challenges stemming from added pressures to reduce costs, shortened product life cycles, ascent customer expectations and coping with increased incertitude (Chan et al., 2017). ...

  • Mohammed Jahed Mohammed Jahed

This written report investigates SCM practices in a specific fast fashion clothes (FFA) industry. The impacts of SCM practices on competitive advantage (CA) are investigated via mediating roles of supply chain agility (SCA) and partnership quality (PQ). Resource reward (R-A) theory, in addition to resources-based view and dynamic capability theories, are used every bit theoretical underpinning. A mixed-method approach is adopted: a qualitative field study and survey research. Data from 296 dress manufacturers in People's republic of bangladesh is analyzed using the partial to the lowest degree squares (PLS) SEM approach, involving cogitating and formative, first and second-order constructs, and mediation tests using the Hayes Procedure macro. Both SCM practices and PQ significantly impact SCA. SCM practices are found to straight heighten CA, but, counterintuitively, simply marginally. But through mediations of SCA and PQ did SCM practices enhance CA significantly. This is a departure from past research that has postulated direct effects betwixt SCM practices and CA. This research is confined to the FFA manufacture and one national setting, Bangladesh. The data analyzed is also cross-sectional, with customary limitations on the temporal dimension. SCM practices contribute to competitive advantage, only just through the mediation of PQ and SC Agility. This is an of import directive to practitioners. Besides, the second-order reflective measures for each construct point the specific SCM practices needed to maximize competitive advantage. This written report contributes to the literature on SCM practices in FFA industry, specifically the mediating roles of PQ and SCA, resulting in new, more nuanced findings that are important in dynamic business organization settings, driven by new theoretical perspectives incorporating R-A theory, which has inappreciably been utilized earlier in SCM research.

This paper uses a narrative literature review to provide prove of the problematic consequences of the fast fashion manufacture in the context of sustainability and to consider the option of the green marketing arroyo as a way of reducing negative impacts. Studies relevant to our research were identified through a search of Spider web of Science, Science Straight, Scopus and Google Scholar. In recent years, ecology sustainability has played an of import role on the political agenda, but it is too driving innovation in business. The range of environmentally friendly products on the marketplace is increasing, and consumers are showing interest in buying these types of products, which are usually more expensive. Unfortunately, fashion production is one of the least sustainable industries. Therefore, more and more than fashion companies are trying to implement green approaches in their value chains. Green marketing in the context of the fashion industry substantially refers to products that are produced with respect to working weather and the surroundings, and to the possibility of finding a compromise between business objectives and ecology bug.

  • Luana Gomes de Oliveira
  • Felipe Yard. Miranda
  • Maria Amélia de Paula Dias

The fashion industry is the second largest polluter of the surroundings. The fast fashion segment aims at a fast production and disposal of article of clothing, slow fashion seeks timeless and durable garments. Both fast and slow manner stores are using unlike strategies of communicating their sustainability practices in order to attract consumer attention. The nowadays study aims to compare the customers' perception regarding sustainability practices of two different stores – 1 of deadening style and the other of fast manner. Both are in Brasilia, the capital of Brazil. The comparative analysis was carried on with a documental analysis of the declared practices and also a survey with customers, in 2018 and 2017, respectively, for slow (118 costumers) and fast way stores (400 costumers). Statistical tests were made - Qui-square hypothesis test to identify preferences and proportion exam to compare the answers. It was noticed that customers in full general practise not have knowledge about the sustainability practices adopted by the companies. Notwithstanding, for 78% of the fast way and for 91% of the slow style customers, the perception of the companies has changed positively later they know about the sustainability practices of the companies. The contour of the respondents was too compared to the general contour of the witting consumer in Brazil. It was found that regardless the consumer says he/she is conscious, they do not agree to pay more than for a greener production, even though they believe that an organization should have sustainable practices. The results suggest that in that location is still a lot to be done in order to transform sustainability practices into competitive for consumer.

  • Grete Birtwistle
  • Paul Freathy Paul Freathy

United kingdom fashion retailing is characterised by high levels of market concentration, centralisation and outlet standardisation. In the pursuit of market place share, the multiple fashion retailers are implementing branding strategies that aim to differentiate their product offering and reinforce their market positioning. Empirical research, via key informant interviews, examined the branding decisions of two multiple fashion retailers and established four chief methods of brand differentiation.

The textiles and dress industry has been neglected in terms of supply concatenation management research. Recently, the industry has undergone a groovy deal of alter, specially with global sourcing and high levels of price competition. In add-on, textiles and wear has market characteristics, such as short product lifecycle, loftier volatility, low predictability, and a high level of impulse purchase, making such problems as quick response of paramount importance. This commodity discusses characteristics of the textiles and apparel manufacture and identifies the perspectives of lean, agile and leagility (a combination of these) within existing supply chain literature, which have been proffered every bit solutions to achieving quick response and reduced lead times. Through example studies of textile and apparel companies, different approaches to supply chain direction are illustrated.

Purpose – The phenomenon of fast fashion is under-researched academically, notwithstanding has received attending in most of the fashion and concern press. Therefore, as it would seem timely, this article aims to present the findings of some exploratory research. Design/methodology/approach – The concept of agile supply chains or supply chain theory is explored with reference to fast fashion requirements. The research was carried out using in-depth interviews of fundamental informants in the manner industry. Findings – The major findings of this exploratory research demonstrate a developmental process occurring in supply chain direction when fast manner comes into the equation. This enquiry provides additional complication on the existing model of supply concatenation management for the fashion industry. Research limitations/implications – This newspaper presents a research agenda for future exploration. There are implications for theoretical perspectives of supply chain management as well as retail operations. Originality/value – This paper offers insights into the impact of fast style on the supply chain and the links in the process which deserve farther research attention.

  • Louise Crewe Louise Crewe
  • Eileen Davenport

This paper considers the contempo restructuring of the wearable retailing sector. The focus is upon changing relationships between article of clothing manufacturers and retailers. The traditional conceptualization of retailer command mechanisms throughout the 1980s was that in that location exists a spectrum ranging from the tight command 'marionette' model to the arms length arroyo. Our aim here is to refine this unrealistic representation of inter-organizational linkages, and to suggest that the traditional polar extreme control model is being replaced by a hierarchical or pyramidal model, with shut control being exercised over preferred suppliers, alongside an increasingly fragmented chain of sub-contracting relationships further down the chain. We consider the implications of such changing buyer-supplier relations on the hereafter of the British wearable industry, and argue that the prospect of an equalizing out of the asymmetrical relationship between retailers and wear manufacturers seems remote.

  • James Richardson James Richardson

Fashion apparel is a highly competitive business concern where production life is curt and differentiation advantages are built on brand epitome and product styling that tin can exist quickly imitated. Over the past two decades, contest on price and quality has intensified as low cost global manufacturing became available to even pocket-size competitors. Recently, contest has shifted to the arena of timing and know-how where vertically integrated firms gained the lead in implementing a ready of process innovations known every bit 'quick response.' designed to shorten the production cycle. Less integrated firms have begun to erode that advantage, merely the integrated firms that accept linked quick response into retailing continue to have superior capabilities. These firms demonstrate the elements of system needed to link flexible and fast cycle manufacturing with rapid learning about demand and client satisfaction.

  • Amrik S. Sohal
  • Marcia Perry
  • Trevor Pratt

This paper discusses the development of partnerships and networks in Australian industry. Two projects are discussed. Project one is funded by the Commonwealth Government and involves the retailers, manufacturers and suppliers in the textiles, clothing and footwear manufacture. The aim of this project, which started in 1992, is to improve the competitiveness and responsiveness of the industry by implementing quick response technologies and methodologies. L companies are involved in this project which have been brought together into clusters of three supply-concatenation companies. Roundtable meetings, workshops and seminars have been conducted to plant good inter-company working relationships and the building of a climate where bug are openly shared.The second projection is funded past industry to aid promote the adoption of Best Practices amongst the companies in the southeast region of Melbourne. Over the past two years, 90 companies have been involved in various activities which has resulted in stiff networks beingness developed around the region.The paper provides details of how these networks and partnerships take developed. Key success factors in establishing networks and partnerships are identified. Problems in facilitating and managing these networks and partnerships are also identified and discussed.

  • Simone Guercini Simone Guercini

Quick fashion formulas can exist described equally a product/service characterised mainly by its potential to supply retailers with a range renewal service that is produced at brusque fourth dimension gaps. The purpose of this paper is to examine the hypothesis that by adopting new quick fashion formulas vesture manufacturers tin can at least in function integrate the dissimilar factors that traditionally contributed to the success of operators in different strategic groups. In the case of the Italian firm analysed hither, the range renewal service and consequently the evolution of a new production management model are integrated with construction of a strong brand identity, which has resulted in increased performance. The development of new quick way formulas appears symptomatic of transition from a production-driven to a market-driven characterisation of the apparel manufacturing sector. The development and success of quick fashion formulas such as those analysed in this newspaper may accept important implications not merely for the evolution of clothing distribution, but indeed for the whole supply chain upstream of the retailer, including textiles manufacturers who produce yarn and cloth.

  • Cipriano Forza Cipriano Forza
  • Andrea Vinelli

Proposes models of a descriptive and interpretative blazon which examine the temporal sequences of the activities and decisions taken in the textile dress chain with reference to design. Examines the opportunities for improvement and also identifies the obstacles that interfere with the realization of quick response (QR) in blueprint. Analyses, using the proposed models, the possible interventions forth the chain as regards design activities and interaction between these and the production and sales activities. Highlights the post-obit: the reduction of pattern lead time, through the parallelization of cloth and garment blueprint and through the utilise of data engineering; the reduction of the variety of production input without penalizing the diverseness perceived past the final consumer; and the acquisition, during design, of preliminary data on future sales, in order to rationalize the offer and bear out the initial assortment of production input.